While a suit maketh the man, it’s superior craftsmanship that maketh the suit. A cornerstone of any sartorial-minded man’s wardrobe, a well-made suit gives its wearer both comfort and confidence, whether they’re about to go into battle in the boardroom or need to look sharp for a special occasion. Using traditional artisan methods with the latest in technological innovation, the new Tailored collection from Rodd & Gunn has just landed in selected stores and we caught up the brands General Manager of Design, John Prikryl, to find our more about the range.
Myer: Tell us about how the new Tailored range from Rodd & Gunn came about?
John Prikryl: It really came about as a natural evolution of the Rodd & Gunn brand. We’re a quality lifestyle brand and strive to be the ultimate men’s outfitter in Australia, New Zealand and North America but we weren’t doing suiting. Our normal collections fit our customer’s casual lifestyles except when he needs to really dress and look the business. We have very strong relationships with many of Italy’s top wool suiting suppliers and are exclusive Australian partners with Albini & Thomas Mason the renowned shirting mills, so the decision to launch into Tailored was a very natural one.
M: What is the design philosophy behind the range?
JP: Quality & Attention to Detail. A great suit is as much about the elements of the suit that you don’t notice as it is the ones you do, like the beautiful Super 130s wools and 100% Cupro linings we use. We want our guys to feel comfortable and confident that they’re wearing a quality constructed garment with the best cut for them. When you look confident you feel confident and that is what I hope our suits do for our customers. Our half canvas constructions ensure our suits age gracefully and fit you better over time.
M: How have you focused on fit through this range?
JP: With fastidious attention. Along with material & construction, fit is the most important factor in suiting. Our technical team developed two different fits with fanatical detail over a 12 month period prior to the launch of Tailored. I can’t even remember how many samples we went through with fittings and adjustments and crazy pattern-making hours we put into it. The fit was initially informed from feedback from our customers as well as the general Rodd & Gunn values of a superb fitting garment that just feels right. I wanted to keep it simple so we currently have a Regular and a Slim fit, and they are what they say they are. The Regular Fit is an everyday fit that suits most men. It has enough room so you’re comfortable but also aware that you’re wearing a great fitting suit that falls where it should. It is a more traditional cut in its length and proportions. The Slim Fit which is actually our best selling fit is a confident step for men who are ready to up their suiting game and present that little bit sharper. The proportions are classic with a contemporary edge.
M: Tell us about how and where you’ve sourced your fabrics?
JP: Its really simple- all our fabrics are 100% Italian sourced. We’ve partnered with some of the best mills from the Biella region in Northern Italy which is traditionally home of the world’s finest woollen suitings. I visit the region four times a year and meet with the mills to view their new collections and go through our exclusive developments. They have an amazing passion for fabrics which I hope we’ve done justice to with our suits. Our shirt fabrics are sourced & developed exclusively with Thomas Mason and Cotonificio Albini also from the north of Italy. These mills are usually generations old and family owned and run which is inspiring to work with in this fast fashion era. Its good knowing that our suits are using the best possible fabrics and will perform accordingly.
M: What colours and prints feature this season?
JP: The fashion world has gone Blue. You simply can’t get away from it at the moment. Our best selling suit which is a running style is a sensationally deep multi-blue yarn-dyed textural affair cut in our slim block. The effect of weaving multiple hues of fine blue yarns together in an exclusive textural pattern says it all about our colour direction. You still can’t go wrong with a sophisticated charcoal or heather suit in the right fit, but if you should definitely have a blue suit or two in your arsenal this year. I see guys loosening up a bit in the Tailored area so we’ve featured some sophisticated Italian print shirts woven from 2ply yarns, again in Blue combinations. Tonal combinations look particularly forward but smart at the moment.
M: What’s your advice for styling and accessorising a suit?
JP: Gentlemen; polish your shoes, don’t try too hard, and always favour style over fashion. Be in your comfort zone with colours and patterns but do take advice from a professional on fit if you’re not totally sure. For the confident guy ditching the tie and substituting with a pocket square can be dashing, as long as his shoes are polished.
M: If you had to choose, what would be your top 3 pieces from this range? (Myer stocked items)
JP: Number one would be our limited edition brilliant white shirt. Its crafted from Giza 87 cotton by Thomas Mason for Rodd & Gunn. It is a timeless investment and the rare Egyptian cotton spun in Italy means it will remains the whitest shirt in your wardrobe for years. The fact that Tailored by Rodd & Gunn have the exclusive rights to this fabric in Australia makes it a simple decision. Number two would be our top selling Blue suit that I mentioned earlier. Its just perfect for right now. The last thing to finish my outfit would be our Derby shoes in black leather. They’re sophisticated and made in Italy – like shoes should be! And I’d make sure they’re always polished.
Tailored by Rodd & Gunn is available in Myer Melbourne, Sydney, Chadstone, Perth, Brisbane, Pacific Fair, Adelaide, Chatswood, Miranda, Eastland, Southland, Doncaster, Morley, Garden City, Chermside, Indooroopilly, Carindale, Karrinyup, Bondi, Warringah, Macquarie, Castle Hill, Toowoomba, Geelong, Mt Gravatt, Robina, Marion, Joondalup, Canberra, Ballarat.
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