Búl’s signature style is given the nordic treatment this season with designer Virginia Martin taking inspiration from the dramatic Icelandic landscape. We headed out to the beautiful Mornington Peninsula with Virginia for a sneak peek at Búl’s new winter campaign.
Myer: Tell us about your AW16 collection?
Virginia Martin: The AW16 collection came to fruition after being inspired by the dramatic scenery of Iceland. There were so many sharp contrasts in the landscape that it became an intriguing juxtaposition to design the collection around. Within the Icelandic landscape you have these dark rocky volcanoes, sitting alongside smooth and tranquil glaciers. These juxtapositions really came to influence the collection through textures, colours and shapes.
The design theme running throughout the AW16 collection, which is a subtle battle between minimalist and maximalist elements, are these voluminous cowl necks, neat high collars and crisp V-necks. Waist ties are added in careful consideration, with extra lengths to allow for wrapping around the body multiple times. Within these features, there is still quite beauty and minimal clean lines that is true to Búl.
M: What new textures or techniques have you played with this season?
VM: This season we have played with raw seams to create a sense of exposure to the elements and volume has been created through dramatic bellowing shapes. The irregularity of the coastline translated into asymmetric and shifting hemlines that encourage the eye to move around the garment. Texturally this season you will continue to see the repetition of duality there is a gentle nod to the black and rocky coastline in the boiled wools and cozy knits whilst sophistication can be found in the luxurious silks and smooth lines of butter soft leathers.
M: How does your creative process work?
VM: Each collection begins with travel… places I have visited and coastlines that I have connected with. When you travel to such beautiful places it is hard to deny the natural beauty around you. It is always an interesting in the studio to see how each coastline translates into colour, shape, texture and print for the collection. The creative process at this point becomes a process of zoning into the fine details of the landscape and working them into the design features of each garment. By the end of the season it becomes quite an intuitive process and it is always really fascinating to see where things end up.
M: What is your must have piece for the season?
VM: My must have this season is the Numer Coat. There is something really special about the connection this coat has with the Icelandic coastline. The boiled wool makes me think of the dark rocky volcanoes, whilst there is a coziness and warmth to the piece. Plus it is going to be perfect in the cold winter mornings ahead in Melbourne.
Model wears Búl Numer Coat, Tattu skirt and Ratharsair skivvy available in selected stores mid-February.
Shop our range of Búl clothing online here.